Friday, June 8, 2007

Bentleyville or Bust

So I just said trails were boring and my first day on roads was anything but boring. This was by far the hardest day of my trip up to this point Mostly because I had no idea what was in store for me and I had just come from a very straight-forward, no need to plan anything rail trail that was relatively flat and had a clear map with all the camping sites and food places labeled...

My compass, which had continuously pointed south when it was mounted on my handlebars, began to work again when I fastened it around my wrist. I think the trails were too rough and the compass couldn't handle the vibrations...that's my theory. But once I was on smooth roads it started working. And between it, my Pennsylvania road map, and the helpful advice of gas station attendants, I was able to find my way west and onto a pretty good route.

Route 40
I ended up on route 40 going west, which in Pennsylvania is a pretty busy two-lane highway but it turns into a less busy road when you get further along closer to the West Virginia border. There was a good shoulder to ride on and lots of easy places along the way to stop for a meal or stay the night most of the time. Though as I neared the end of that first day I couldn't seem to find a hotel to stay at. Asking around at the local laundromat in Brownsville, I was told that the closest hotel was back in Uniontown which I had just riden from about 15 miles. I decided to keep chugging on route 40 to get to the next town about 25 miles further west. I knew I wouldn't be able to make it that far since it was already almost 6 pm but there's no better motivator to keep moving than feeling like you might be stuck on the side of the road in the middle of an old coal mining town in southwestern Pennsylvania. Brownsville was by far my least favorite part of route 40...though it had what could have been a nice downtown area given some investment, it was completely abandoned and desolate.

Motel or Auto Glass Repair Shop?
Around this time leaving Brownsville I started playing a game I call "Is that a motel or an auto glass repair shop?" I could also have called it "Is that a motel or a liquor store?" Or "Is that a motel or a gentleman's club?"

There is a funny littel trick Pennsylvanians like to play on travelers. There are a number of "inns" or "hotels" that are actually liquor stores or bars. The bar happens to be housed in an old hotel or motel and they kept the same, now misleading, name.

Anyhow, this was distressing for me as I had already had a difficult and hilly day through the Pennsylvania hillside/mountainside and had promised myself the treat of staying in a hotel that night. I finally stopped at the right gas station and was told there was a Best Western about 6 miles north of where I was, in Bentleyville.

Bentleyville, PA
The road to Bentleyville was actually one of the most beautiful of my trip up to that point. My favorite views are of farmland and snug little houses and barns nestled into the hilly countryside. And there were a lot of those great views. I walked a fair bit up some hills so I had ample opportunity to gaze out and enjoy my evening stroll through the country.

I finally got to the Best Western and had never been so happy to see suburban sprawl in all my life. I ate great gnocchi and downed 2 root beer at CJ's Cafe across the street and then watched movies until late and slept in the next morning.

Duct Tape
I realized in Uniontown that one of the screws holding up my back rack had come loose and fallen out of the eyelet. So I bought some duct tape to keep that side of the rack secure and it's doing the trick. This is my one bike malfunction to speak of, so I think so far so good.

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